Sidings

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Seasoning

Clear All Heart, Clear, Heart B and B Grade sidings are available Certified Kiln Dried for applications requiring minimal shrinkage and top performance. Redwood kiln dried to accepted stan-dards will include the words "Certified Kiln Dried" or the initials "CKD" in the grademark on each piece or package of siding or be so specified on the invoice.

Patterns Standard redwood siding patterns include: bevel, rabbeted bevel, tongue and groove, shiplap, channel shiplap and V shiplap. Board and batten siding is laid up using standard size boards. Pattern Numbers Each siding pattern has a pattern number. To ensure delivery of the proper product, the pattern number should be included on specifications and invoices.

Textures

Surfaced sidings have a smooth, planed face, emphasizing the wood's grain and color.

Saw-textured sidings have resawn faces providing a rough textured appearance that holds finishes extremely well.

Bevel & Rabbeted Bevel Patterns

Redwood bevel siding, also known as lap or clapboard siding, has the timeless appeal of a strong traditional style and provides the deepest horizontal shadow line of all siding patterns.

Bevel siding is produced in both plain and rabbeted patterns. Each is available in two different butt thicknesses for variation in depth of shadow line and insulation value. Plain bevel patterns produce a boldershadow line than rabbeted bevel pat-terns of the same thickness. Rabbeted bevel, with its 1/2-inch rabbet milled to fit over the thin edge of the preced-ing course, allows the siding to lay flat against the studs or sheathing. Rabbeted patterns provide a weather-tight lap and lay up with greater coverage than plain patterns.

Installation

With plain bevel patterns, use a furring strip to support the lower edge of the starting course. With rabbeted patterns, the bottom course should be supported by a nailing strip sawn from the thin

edge of the pattern. Nail bevel siding at every stud, which should not exceed 24 inches on center. For plain bevel siding, a lap of one inch is required to ensure weather-tightness.

Note: With CKD rabbeted bevel patterns, an expansion clearance of 1/8 inch is required in the rabbet.

Availability

Bevel and rabbeted bevel sidings are available in all architectural grades.Plain bevel siding has a smooth surface on one face and a saw-textured surface on the other face. Either face may be used.

Tongue & Groove Patterns

Redwood tongue and groove siding is versatile and weathertight. Its variety of refined patterns has established a permanent place in residential and commercial architecture. Tongue and groove siding can be laid up vertically, horizontally or diagonally and is ideal for matched interior-exterior combinations.

Tongue and groove patterns are pro-duced in square edge, eased (slightly rounded) edge and various widths of V groove edges. The latter create a shadow line emphasizing the direction of the courses. Various design effects are achievable by alternating patterns and board widths. For 4-and 6-inch widths of tongue and groove siding over solid wood sheathing, blind nailing is possible using one 8-penny finishing nail per bearing.

Tongue and groove siding 8 inches or wider should be facenailed,using two 8-penny nails per bearing.

Installation

Tongue and groove siding is properly applied with the groove edge down; this assures a weathertight wall. Horizontally-applied tongue and groove siding should be nailed at every stud, not exceeding 24 inches on center. Siding applied vertically should be nailed to 2" x 4" horizontal blocking that is for 4-and 6-inch widths of tongue and groove siding over solid wood sheathing, blind nailing is possible using one 8-penny finishing nail per bearing.

Installed between the studs at not more than 24 inches on center. As an alterna-tive, vertical siding may be nailed to 1x3 furring strips and solid wood sheathing at 24 inches on center.

Shiplap & Channel Shiplap Patterns

Redwood shiplap patterns are widely used for siding and paneling because of the varied visual effects that can be achieved. The boards are self-aligning, which makes installation easy. Shiplap patterns form strong, deliberate shadow lines. Shiplap siding in V channel, Cove and Boston shiplap patterns can be applied either horizontally or vertically. Square-edged channel shiplap patterns should only be applied vertically.

Installation

Shiplap sidings applied horizontally start with the bottom course and are nailed at each stud, which should not exceed 24 inches on center. Channel shiplap pat-tern sidings require a 1/8-inch expansion clearance in each joint. Shiplap siding applied in vertical courses should be nailed to 2x4 horizontal blocking that is installed between the studs at not more than 24 inches on center. As an alternative, vertical siding may be nailed to horizontal 1x3 furring strips and solid wood sheathing at 24 inches on center.

 

Board & Batten Paterns

The popular board and batten siding styles are not, strictly speaking, siding patterns but are created using standard size lumber. Any number of interesting treatments can be created, including various width battens over wide board,even spaced board and batten, and reverse board and batten.

	Installation Board and batten patterns should only be applied vertically. Boards should be nailed to horizontal blocking placed not more than 24 inches on center. As an alternative, 1x3 or greater horizontal furring strips may be applied over solid wood sheathing.Space underboards at least 1/2 inch apart and nail with one nail per bearing through the center of the material. For boards wider than 8'', use two face nails evenly spaced. Wider spacing may be used with wider battens.
Nail batten strips through the center so the nail shank passes through the space. Make certain the batten laps the underboard at least 1/2 inch on both sides. Board and batten siding can have a variety of appearances depending on the width of boards and battens. A reverse board and batten pattern is achieved by placing wide boards over the narrow battens.

Preventing Moisture Problems

Priming

It is recommended that a water repellent containing mildewcide be applied to all surfaces of redwood siding before construction begins. This will inhibit the movement of moisture as well as mildew growth, two conditions which can severely damage a finish coating. When a clear, bleached or semitransparent finish is to be applied later, a preliminary coat of water repellent will protect against weathering and construction staining prior to final finishing. For best performance, special care should be given to end grain; cut ends should be coated before installation. Redwood siding should always be back-primed. Factory priming or pre-finishing is highly recommended.

Vapor Barriers

Invisible moisture is one of the least understood and most troublesome causes of structural and finish failures. It moves as invisible moisture vapor from the warm interior of the house toward the cold exterior. Vapor travels through plaster, insulation and wood and may condense into water as it approaches the colder exterior surfaces of the sidewall.

This can sometimes result in structural damage as well as siding cupping and nail popping. Water entering the siding can also cause finishes to blister, peel and discolor.

Vapor barriers are necessary to prevent migration of moisture vapor. They must be applied to the warm side of the stud wall, directly under the finish material. There are several types; the most frequently used are either plastic or aluminum sheet material with a rating of one perm or less. Those sheets should overlap at least 2 inches at their edges.

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